3. Serge/finish zipper opening on right pocket bag.
4. Serge/finish the bottoms of all pant hems.
Darts and Pleats
5. Stitch back pant darts from notches to dot mark, and press toward center back.
6. Stitch front pleats from notches to dot marks, and press toward the center front.
7. Stitch bib (and bib lining) darts from notches to dot marks, and press toward center front.
Pocket Zipper Closure
8. Place zipper tape face down on right side of the pocket bag facing, alining the top of the tape with top of the pocket facing, and the edge of the tape with the edge of the pocket facing. Stitch from the top of the tape to the bottom of the zipper stop with 1/4” seam allowance. (Using a zipper foot for this step will be helpful.)
9. Repeat the previous step, placing the other side of the zipper tape face down on the pocket bag zipper opening. Stitch from the top of the tape to the bottom of the zipper stop with 1/4” seam allowance.
It will look like this from the wrong side.
10. Close the remaining seam from the bottom of the zipper stop to the bottom of the pocket bag with a 1/2” seam allowance. Make sure not to catch the zipper in this step (or bring your needle down onto the metal zipper!). A zipper foot will be helpful with this step.
11. From the wrong side, press this seam allowance open.
12. Flip the pocket bag over to view the right side, and press the fabric, so that the fold of the fabric comes together, effectively hiding the zipper teeth underneath. (Make sure to press this lightly and quickly as to not melt your zipper teeth.)
13. Top stitch the zipper all the way around. Start at the top, sew to the bottom of the zipper stop, and with your needle down, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric to take a few stitches along the bottom, and stop and pivot once more to sew back to the top. (Move the zipper pull out of the way as you are sewing, if necessary.)
Attaching the Pockets
14. Fold both pocket bags, right sides together, in half at notches, so that the bottom of the pocket bag lines up. Press a crease from notch to notch.
Both pockets should look like this from one side.
And look like this from the other.
15. With right sides together, stitch the pocket to the front pant at the pocket opening with a 1/4” seam allowance. Repeat this step, and the following steps for both the right and left pant legs.
16. Flip the pocket towards the inside of the pant front, and press well.
17. Top stitch at 1/4”.
18. Refold the pocket at the crease you pressed in Step 1, and stitch the pocket bag closed with a 5/8” seam allowance. Get as close as you can to the bottom of the pocket opening. (The top stitching from the previous step won’t allow you to sew all the way to the edge, and that’s fine.)
19. Serge/finish the bottom edge of the pocket bag.
20. Pin the pocket bag in position at the top of the pant front. The pocket opening will line up with the notch on the pocket bag facing.
21. Top stitch the front pleats, catching the pocket bag in the stitching.
This is what the inside should look like after top stitching in Step 8.
Finishing remaining Pant Seams
22. With right sides together, match the right front pant with the right back pant and stitch the inseam with a 5/8” seam allowance. Repeat this step and the following steps for both the right and left pant legs.
23. Serge/finish this seam, and press it towards the back pant leg.
24. Top stitch this seam.
25. Stitch side seams with a 5/8” seam allowance.
26. Press this seam towards the back pant leg, and serge/finish.
Make sure all these steps are completed on both pant legs before proceeding to the next step.
27. Turn one pant leg inside out, and the other inside in, and with right sides together, slide one pant leg into the other, lining up the center back, center front, and inseams. Stitch the crotch seam all the way around with 5/8” seam allowance.
28. Serge/finish this seam. The crotch will fit best and be easier to top stitch if you trim the seam allowance down to about 3/8”.
29. Turn the pants all the way out. Press the crotch seam in one direction from center back to center front.
30. Top stitch the crotch seam all the way around.
31. Finish the hems by folding the cuffs up 2” and press.
32. And up again 2” and press.
Sewing the Bib (skip these steps if you are making the Trousers - View B.)
33. Your bib and bib lining darts should be sewn if you did this in Step One: Prep. If not, sew those up.
34. With right sides together, stitch the bib to the bib lining all the way around with 1/4” seam allowance. Stitching across the corners with 2 stitches instead of taking a hard right angle will allow the corners to turn more easily.
35. Clip corners away.
36. Turn the bib right side out and press.
37. Top stitch with two rows of stitching. One row at the edge, and another at 1/4”.
38. Turn the bib pocket opening down 1” and top stich at 7/8”. While your at it, go ahead and do this for the rear patch pocket as well.
39. Fold remaining sides in at 3/8” and press well. Start with the sides.
40. Then fold and press the bottom up as well.
41. Top stitch the pocket to the bib at suggested location, or simply wherever you like. Just stay 2” from the top of the bib, so as not to interfere with the button holes.
Reinforce the top of the pocket with an extra row of top stitching.
Bib patch pocket location: about 2” down from the top of the bib, and 3/4” in from the side. Keep the top of the pocket parallel with the top of the bib.
Attaching the Waistband and Bib
42. With right sides together, pin the interfaced waistband to the top of the pants, matching notches on the waistband to center back seam, center front seam, and side seams on the pants. There should be excess hanging over at the pocket opening.
43. Stitch all the way around with a 5/8” seam allowance.
44. Trim seam allowance to 3/8”, and grade the pants seam allowance to 1/4”.
45. Press all seam allowances up towards waistband.
46. Top stitch waistband all the way around, catching all the seam allowances that have been pressed up.
47. Attach the bib to the top of the waistband, matching center notches. Stitch with 1/2” seam allowance.
Skip this step if you are making the Trousers - View B.
48. With right sides together, stitch the waistband facing to the waistband with 5/8” seam allowance.
49. Trim seam allowances to 3/8”, then grade the waistband facing to 1/4”.
50. Working from the right side of the garment, press the waistband facing, and all seam allowances up.
51. Under stitch the seam allowances to the waistband facing.
52. Fold the waistband facing to the inside and press well.
53. Working from the right side of the garment, press the waistband where it meets the bib.
Skip this step if you are sewing the Trousers - View B.
54. At the pocket opening, turn back the waistband, and all seam allowances that are attached, toward the waistband facing and stitch closed with 5/8” seam allowance.
This is Step 54, viewed from the other side. This seam should be flush with the bib and the pocket opening.
55. Repeat Step 54 at the pocket opening on the under side.
This is Step 55 viewed from the other side.
56. Turn the points out and press.
All that under stitching and folding toward the waistband facing will give you a nice crisp point at the end of the waistband. Yay!
57. Top stitch the upper edge of the waistband all the way around.
58. To close up the waistband entirely, fold the remaining seam allowance on the waistband facing up about 3/8” to 1/2”. Just be sure to leave enough hanging past the waistline seam as to catch it with the top stitching from the right side.
Alternately, you can simply serge/finish the bottom edge of the waistband facing, and fold the corners under at the opening. This method is a little less pretty on the inside, but will reduce bulk inside the waistband.
Do be sure to fold those ends in though, so you get a clean finish at the opening.
18. Pin the waistband facing in place from the right side, and stitch in the ditch (just under the waistband).
Whew! That’s a lot of steps, but this method will get you a really nice and flat waistband, and will reduce sewing through a lot of bulk at the very end.
Finishing Touches (Almost Done!)
59. Sew back patch pocket at suggested location, or where it looks best. Attach using the same method as the bib pocket (steps Six.6 - Six.9) Sew the same way as the bib pocket, or sew it with two rows of top stitching, one row at the edge, and one row at 1/4”. Sew it on the left or the right side, or cut out two of them and sew them on both cheeks!
Rear patch pocket suggested location: 4 1/4” down from the bottom of the waistband, and 1” in from the center back seam. Keep the top of the pocket parallel with the waistband.
60. Sew a button hole on the waistband, centered from top to bottom, and at 5/8” from the edge.
61. Zip up your pants, and using your button hole as a guide, mark the button location, and sew it on.
If you are sewing the Trousers - View B, you’re finished! Put these babies on!
If you are sewing the Overalls - View A, proceed. (Just a few more steps to go.)
62. Sew bib straps together with 1/4” seam allowance.
63. Turn them right side out, press, and top stitch edges at 1/4”. Finish raw ends by serging (pictured on the left) or turning under and top stitching (pictured on the right).
64. Sew buttons to the straps 1” from the bottom edge, and centered.
65. Sew the button holes on the bib, 3/4” from the top, and 3/4” from the side.
66. Try your overalls on at this point to find the most comfortable location for the straps. With the straps buttoned to the front, tuck the ends of the straps into the waistband at the back, and pin in the desired location. Space them evenly from the center back seam.
67. When you have pinned them where you want them to go, top stitch them down to the waistband by sewing over the top stitching that’s already there. They should extend past the width of the waistband, so be sure to stop stitch them down at both locations. Represented here with yellow dashes.