1. Interface sleeve cuffs, fly facings, top collar, belt, and center front facing. Button holes will be placed on the right side of your garment, so make sure that is the center front facing you interface.
Hems of all pant legs.
Tops of all pockets.
Hems of both short sleeves. (View A)
Sides and bottoms of fly facings.
Center front facings.
Pants - Views A & B
3. Stitch back pant darts from notches to dot mark, and press toward center back.
4. Stitch front pleats from notches to dot marks, and press toward the center front.
5. Fold both pocket bags, right sides together, in half at notches, so that the bottom of the pocket bag lines up. Press a crease from notch to notch.
6. With right sides together, stitch the pocket to the front pant at the pocket opening with a 1/4” seam allowance.
7. Flip the pocket towards the inside of the pant front, and press well.
8. Top stitch at 1/4”.
9. Refold the pocket at the crease you pressed in Step 1, and stitch the pocket bag closed with a 5/8” seam allowance. Get as close as you can to the bottom of the pocket opening. (The top stitching from the previous step won’t allow you to sew all the way to the edge, and that’s fine.)
10. Serge/finish the bottom edge of the pocket bag.
11. Pin the pocket bag in position at the top of the pant front. The pocket opening will line up with the notch on the pocket bag facing.
12. Top stitch the front pleats, catching the pocket bag in the stitching.
13. With right sides together, match the right front pant with the right back pant and stitch the inseam with a 5/8” seam allowance.
14. Serge/finish this seam, and press it towards the back pant leg.
15. Top stitch this seam.
16. Stitch side seams with a 5/8” seam allowance.
17. Press this seam towards the back, and serge/finish.
*Repeat all these steps for the other pant leg before proceeding to the next step.
19. Turn one pant leg inside out, and the other inside in, and with right sides together, slide one pant leg into the other, lining up the center back, center front, and inseams. Stitch the crotch seam from center front opening dot mark around to center back with a 5/8” seam allowance.
20. Clip into the crotch seam allowance from the center front extension to the stitch line, 1/4” below the starting point of the stitch.
21. Finish/serge the crotch curve seam allowance from the center back to the opening at center front.
22. Finish the hems by folding the cuffs up 2” and press.
23. Then up again 2” and press.
Step 3: Action Back Pleat - View B
24. With right sides together, stitch center back panel to pleat with 1/4” seam allowance, stopping 1/4” from the bottom of the pleat.
25. Press seam allowance towards pleat.
26. With right sides together, stitch side back panel to pleat with 1/4” seam allowance, stopping 1/4” from the bottom of the pleat.
27. Stitch the center back panel and the side back panel together, starting from the end of the pleat to the bottom of the back bodice.
*Make sure not to catch the pleat seam allowance in this stitching.
28. Trim the seam allowance of the center back panel and pleat to 1/8”.
29. Then from the right side, fold them together and press well.
30. Top stitch at 1/4”. This will enclose the seam allowance you trimmed in the previous step. Make sure to stitch as close to the end of the pleat as possible, without catching the side seam panel. (Pictured in the next photograph.)
This is what the underside of the top stitching should look like.
31. From the wrong side, press the center back and side back seam allowance towards the center.
32. Finish/serge this seam allowance from the shoulder all the way down.
33. From the right side, bartack the pleat from the end of the topstitching to the opening of the pleat.
*If you are sewing View A (no back pleat) simply sew back darts from notches to dart point and press towards center.
Bodice - Views A & B
34. Sew side bust dart from notches to dart point, and press down.
35. With right sides together, stitch the back and front bodices together at side seams and shoulder seams with a 5/8” seam allowance.
36. Finish/serge these seam allowances.
37. Press the side seam towards the back.
38. Press the shoulder seam towards the front.
39. Top stitch shoulder seam.
*This step is optional, but I think it looks nice, especially with the back shoulder pleat version.
Long Sleeve Plackets - View B (Demonstrated with the Left Sleeve)
40. Prepare placket by drawing the cut line 1 1/2” from the non-tower side, and draw a notch 1/2” from the top.
41. Fold both edges in 1/4” and press.
42. Fold the tower over 1” and press.
43. Create a point by pressing the top of the tower into a right triangle.
44. Then fold the triangle back over itself to create an isosceles triangle (for the geometry savvy) and press really well.
45. Fold and press the other side of the placket over 1/2”.
46. Unfold everything and place the placket on the WRONG side of the left sleeve. (Both placket and sleeve will be WRONG side up at this stage.)
Line the cutting line up with the left most notch on the sleeve, and pin into place. Keep the marked cutting line parallel with the sleeve grain line, by aligning the notch mark on the placket to the dot mark on the sleeve.
47. Stitch around the cutting line at 1/4”, and across the top 1/4” away from the top edge of the placket.
48. Cut directly on your cut line to the notch mark.
49. From there, clip into corners, right up to the stitch line.
50. Press all sides of the placket towards stitch box.
53. Turn the placket through the box to the right side of the sleeve.
54. Press the fold of the placket just over the the stitch box.
Because of the folding and pressing prep in the beginning, this will naturally fold down where it should.
55. Edge stitch this side of the placket into place.
56. Fold the tower side of the placket just over the stitch box.
This will also fold naturally into place.
57. Refold the triangle at the top.
58. Pin everything down, and give this a good press.
59. From the wrong side of the sleeve, baste a stitching guideline across the top of the stitch box, catching the entire placket from the front.
This is what the right side should look like. We will use this as a guide when we topstitch.
60. Edge stitch around the entire placket. Use the illustrated stitching guide below to help.
61. Stitching should be done in one step. Start at the bottom of the placket, and stitch around, following the direction of the arrows on this diagram. As you get around the point, stitch down to the basted guide line, pivot, and stitch right on top of it. This will ensure a straight line that is perpendicular to the placket.
Finish up with a bartack at the very end.
It should look like this from the inside of the sleeve.
Whew! Take a deep breath, and repeat all this on the other sleeve.
Long Sleeve Cuffs - View B
62. Fold sleeve right sides together and stitch with a 5/8” seam allowance.
63. Finish/serge seam allowance, and press towards the back.
64. Matching notches to notches, pin pleats down so that they open towards the placket.
65. With right sides together, stitch the interfaced cuff to the sleeve hem with a 5/8” seam allowance. The cuff should extend past the placket openings by 1/4”.
66. Trim seam allowances to 3/8, and grade sleeve seam allowance to 1/4”. Press all seam allowances toward the cuff. Make sure to press the extension beyond the plackets towards cuffs as well.
67. Stitch the cuff facing to the cuff with a 1/4” seam allowance.
68. Turn cuff facing in and press outer edges.
69. From the inside, fold the cuff facing seam allowance in so that it just covers the stitch, and press.
70. From the right side, topstitch around the entire cuff, catching the folded cuff facing.
This is what the inside should look like.
71. Add a button hole. Centered from top to bottom, and 3/4” away from the opening.
Short Sleeves - View A
72. Fold the sleeve, right sides together and stitch with 5/8” seam allowance.
73. Clip into the seam allowance as shown. Clip into top and bottom angles, and clip a small triangle out of the middle angle.
74. Finish/serge the seam allowance above clip
75. Press the finished seam allowance towards the back of the sleeve, and all other seam allowances open.
76. Press the hem up 3”.
77. Stitch along the edge.
This is the previous step from the right side of the sleeve.
78. From the right side, press the cuff up 2”.
Attaching Sleeves to Bodice -Views A & B
79. With right sides together, pin sleeve to bodice. Match underarm seams and shoulder seam to shoulder notch on sleeve.
80. Ease the sleeve cap into armscye between back and front notches, pinning as you go.
81. Stitch with 5/8” seam allowance.
82. Finish/serge the seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to about 3/8” as you serge, or before you finish. Trimming this seam allowance down will ensure a better fit though the arm.
Collar - Views A & B
*Interface top collar, if you didn’t do this step in the very beginning.
83. Sew the top collar to the under collar all around with a 1/4” seam allowance, leaving the bottom neckline edge open. Ease the top collar in as you sew.
84. Trim corners of the collar. Stitching across the corners will help the collar turn.
85. Turn the collar out, rolling the top collar towards the back just slightly, and press.
86. Top stitch at 1/'4” all around.
87. Make sure the top collar (the interfaced side) is up, and pin to the neckline. Match center back notches, shoulder seams with notches, and the center front notches to collar ends. Pin into place.
88. Stitch from center front to center front with 1/4” seam allowance.
89. Sew a piece of 1” bias tape to the neckline with 1/4” seam allowance. Cut your tape so that it starts and stops about 1/2” from the collar edges.
90. Press the tape towards the seam allowance.
91. Clip into the neckline seam allowance about every 3/4” to 1”.
10. Then fold and press the bias tape, so the edge of the tape meets the neckline stitch.
(The neckline isn’t finished, but this is as far as we can get for now.)
Attaching the Bodice to the Pants - Views A & B
92. Matching notches, pin the front bodice waist pleat so that the pleat opens toward the side seam.
*You can also sew this pleat as a dart for a more fitted bodice.
93. With right sides together, pin the bodice to the pants, matching center backs, side seams, and center fronts.
94. Stitch the waistline with 5/8” seam allowance.
95. Finish/serge all seam allowances together.
Finishing up the Center Front
(Photos demonstrate the right side of the garment as it is worn.)
96. Sew front bodice facing and front pants facing together with 5/8” seam allowance.
97. Press open.
98. Pin the front facing to the front of the coveralls, aligning the top neck edges, the waistline, and the bottom edge of the front pants opening.
A closer look at the neck edge. The bias binding will hang over a bit here, and that is ideal.
99. Stitch from the neckline all the way down with 1/4” seam allowance.
Here is a closer look at the neckline stitching.
100. Clip the corner to allow this to turn more easily.
101. Turn facing to the inside and press.
A closer look at the neckline.
*Repeat all these steps for the left facing before proceeding to the next step.
102. Finish the neckline by pinning the bias tape just over the seam allowances.
103. Edge stitch the bias tape, from facing edge to facing edge. (Stopping before you get to the center front will ensure you don’t see this stitching from the front.
This is what it will look like from the right side of the garment.
104. Sew four buttons onto the center front facing. Sew the top button 3/4” from the waistline seam, and each one 1 3/4” away from the next. Place all of them 5/8” from the center seam.
105. At the bottom edge of the center front opening, turn the facing and all seam allowances towards the facing and stitch the bottom closed.
Here is a look at step 10 from the other side. This stitch should meet the top of the crotch seam.
106. Turn this point out and press.
This is what it will look like from the inside of the garment.
*Repeat steps 10 & 11 for the left side.
107. Stitch in the ditch here…
So that you catch and secure the facing at the waistline seam.
108. Repeat step 12 on the left side…
So you catch the facing at the waistline seam.
109. Add corresponding button holes to the left opening.
110. Mark your top stitching line about 1 1/4” away from the edge, and match the same angle at the bottom.
111. Top stitch, making sure not to catch the other side as you sew.
112. Bartack at the bottom of the point to secure the juncture of all those seams.
18. Bartack at the other angle, catching the left opening.
Step 11: Finishing Touches - Views A & B
113. Fold pocket opening down 1” and top stitch at 7/8”.
114. Fold remaining sides in at 3/8” and press well. Start with the sides.
115. Then fold and press the bottom up as well.
116. Top stitch the pockets to the bodice at suggested location, or wherever looks best to you.
*If your pockets look the best closer to center front, make sure you don’t catch the center front facings as you top stitch the pockets on.
117. Reinforce pocket openings with extra top stitching.
118. Optional: Stitch a pen channel about an 1” away from the edge of the pocket. (Best sewn on the left pocket if you’re right handed, and on the right pocket if you’re left handed.)
119. Stitch button holes. Place the first button hole horizontally 3/8” from the top and 1/2” in from the center front edge. Place the last button hole 3/8” from the waistline and 1/2” from the center front edge. Place the middle button hole halfway in between the very top and the very bottom button hole and 5/8” from the center front edge. And then place the last two button holes halfway between the middle button hole and top button hole, and the middle and the bottom.
Or you can use a button hole gauge, or whatever tried and true method you like to get 5 evenly spaced button holes.
120. Add your corresponding buttons. Make sure to shank your buttons.
121. For the button nearest the waistline, add a very long shank. The best way to do this, is to use a pencil or chopstick instead of the standard matchstick or toothpick. That button will eventually have to go through three button holes. It will need some room.
I’ve added a video tutorial if you need it.
122. With right sides together stitch the belt pieces together with 1/4” seam allowance. Leave the end open.
123. Turn the belt out.
124. Press the seams and corners nice and flat.
125. Fold the open end into itself about 1/4” and top stitch closed. Continue topstitching all the way around the belt, ending back where you started.
126. Place a button hole at the pointed end, centered between the top and bottom, and 1 1/4” away from the belt tip.
127. Before adding the final button hole, try your coveralls on. Put the waistline button through button hole on the belt and wrap the belt around to get the proper placement of the final button hole. When you have found the spot you like that still allows you to breathe, or eat a meal, sew that last button hole.
The belt goes on like this:
128. While your coveralls are still on, locate the best position for the back pocket. Sew the same way as the breast pockets, or sew it with two rows of top stitching, one row at the edge, and one row at 1/4”. Sew it on the left or the right side, or cut out two of them and sew them on both cheeks!
Rear patch pocket suggested location: 4 1/4” down from the bottom of the waistline seam, and 1” in from the center back seam. Keep the top of the pocket parallel with the waistline seam.